[en] Background With aging, the barrier repair kinetics following any weakening of the epidermal permeability barrier function is commonly slowed down. Objective To assess the recovery rate of the epidermal permeability barrier function following controlled stripping and applications of samphire and control formulations. Method In 12 healthy subjects older than 50 years, controlled stratum corneum (SC) strippings were used to increase the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) just above 15 g/m(2) /h. This procedure followed a 14-day skin preconditioning by daily applications of formulations enriched or not with a samphire (Crithmum maritimum) biomass. An untreated skin site served as control. The epidermal permeability repair kinetics was assessed for 14 days by daily measurements of both TEWL and the colorimetric value a*. Results A rapid (96 h) recovery to lower TEWL values was obtained at each of the samphire-preconditioned sites (0.1% serum, 0.05% cream, the serum-cream association, and 0.5% silicone oil). This process was significantly (P < 0.001) faster than that on both the placebo-preconditioned (silicone oil) and the untreated sites. No adverse inflammatory and sensory reactions were recorded. At the sites preconditioned by samphire formulations, the SC moisture (capacitance) was higher at completion of the study compared to inclusion. Conclusions The present experimental pilot study brings some clues supporting a beneficial boosting effect of samphire cell biomass on the kinetics of epidermal permeability barrier repair.
Lequeux C, Lhoste A, Rovere MR et al. Model of in vitro healing to test the influence of dedifferentiated Crithmum maritimum cells on dermal repair and epidermal regeneration. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2011; 24: 75-80.
Kompaore F, Marty JP, Dupont C. In vivo evaluation of the stratum corneum barrier function in Blacks, Caucasians and Asians with two non-invasive methods. Skin Pharmacol 1993; 6: 200-7.
Reed JT, Ghadially R, Elias PM. Skin type, but neither race nor gender, influence epidermal permeability barrier function. Arch Dermatol 1995; 131: 1134-8.
Warrier AG, Kligman AM, Harper RA. A comparison of black and white skin using non-invasive methods. J Soc Cosmet Chem 1996; 47: 229-40.
Henry F, Goffin V, Maibach H, Piérard GE. Regional differences in stratum corneum reactivity to surfactants: quantitative assessment using the corneosurfametry bioassay. Contact Derm 1997; 37: 271-5.
Yosipovitch G, Goon ATJ, Chan YH, Goh CL. Are there any differences in skin barrier function, integrity and skin blood flow between different subpopulations of Asians and Caucasians? Exog Dermatol 2002; 1: 302-6.
Grimes P, Edison BL, Green BA, Wildnauer RH. Evaluation of inherent differences between African American and white skin surface properties using subjective and objective measures. Cutis 2004; 73: 392-6.
Jacobi U, Gautier J, Sterry W, Lademann J. Gender-related differences in the physiology of stratum corneum. Dermatology 2005; 211: 312-7.
Machado M, Hadgraft J, Lane ME. Assessment of the variation of skin barrier function with anatomic site, age, gender and ethnicity. Int J Cosmet Sci 2010; 32: 397-409.
Roskos KV, Guy RH. Assessment of skin barrier function using transepidermal water loss: effect of age. Pharm Res 1989; 6: 949-53.
Wilhelm KP, Cua AB, Maibach HI. Skin aging. Effect on transepidermal water loss, stratum corneum hydration, skin surface pH, and casual sebum content. Arch Dermatol 1991; 127: 1806-9.
Harding CR. The stratum corneum: structure and function in health any disease. Dermatol Ther 2004; 17: 6-15.
Van Cromphaut I, Fumal I, Jacquemin D et al. Skin barrier repair after burns. Electrometric evaluation using the passive sustainable hydration test. J Environ Med 1999; 1: 47-50.
Uhoda E, Piérard-Franchimont C, Debatisse B et al. Repair kinetics of stratum corneum under repeated insults. Exog Dermatol 2004; 3: 7-11.
Piérard GE. Microscopic evaluation of the dansyl chloride test. Dermatology 1992; 185: 37-40.
Piérard GE, Piérard-Franchimont C. Dihydroxyacetone test as a substitute for the dansyl chloride test. Dermatology 1993; 186: 133-7.
Pinnagoda J, Tupker RA, Agner T, Serup J. Guidelines for transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement. A report from the standardization group of the European Society of Contact Dermatitis. Contact Derm 1990; 22: 164-78.
Rogiers V. EEMCO guidance for the assessment of transepidermal water loss in cosmetic sciences. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2001; 14: 117-28.
Zhai H, Poblete N, Maibach HI. Stripped skin model to predict irritation potential of topical agents in vivo in humans. Int J Dermatol 1998; 37: 386-9.
Goffin V, Piérard-Franchimont C, Piérard GE. Passive sustainable hydration of the stratum corneum following surfactant challenge. Clin Exp Dermatol 1999; 24: 308-11.
Tsuruta D, Green K, Gessios S, Jones J. The barrier function of skin: how to keep a tight lid on water loss. Trends Cell Biol 2002; 12: 355-7.
Shah JH, Zhai H, Maibach HI. Comparative evaporimetry in man. Skin Res Technol 2005; 11: 205-8.
Dreher F, Modjtahedi BS, Modjtahedi SP, Maibach HI. Quantification of stratum corneum removal by adhesive tape stripping by total protein assay in 96-well microplates. Skin Res Technol 2005; 11: 97-101.
Bashir SJ, Chew AL, Anigbogu A et al. Physical and physiological effects of stratum corneum tape stripping. Skin Res Technol 2001; 7: 40-8.
Jacobi U, Weigmann HJ, Ulrich J et al. Estimation of the relative stratum corneum amount removed by tape stripping. Skin Res Technol 2005; 11: 91-6.
Tokumura F, Yoshiura Y, Homma T, Nukatsuka H. Regional differences in adhesive tape stripping of human skin. Skin Res Technol 2006; 12: 178-82.
Norlen L. Molecular skin barrier models and some central problems for the understanding of skin barrier structure and function. Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2003; 16: 203-11.
Rosando C, Rodrigues M. In vivo study of the physiological impact of stratum corneum sampling methods. Int J Cosmet Sci 2003; 25: 37-44.
Denda M, Tsuchiya T. Barrier recovery rate varies time dependently in human skin. Br J Dermatol 2000; 142: 881-4.
Kellar RS, Hubka M, Rheins LA et al. Hypoxic conditioned culture medium from fibroblasts grown under embryonic-like conditions supports healing following post-laser resurfacing. J Cosmet Dermatol 2009; 8: 190-6.
